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Showing posts with label Fashion History. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion History. Show all posts

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Walking Amongst Giants: American Woman at the MET


I finally made it to the American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity at the Metropolitan Museum. Seriously, I have tried 8 times to go and each and every time something has come up. This time I only made it with 45 minutes to spare, so unfortunately it was a bit of a rushed viewing of the exhibition.

A little background on the exhibition:


American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity "explores developing perceptions of the modern American woman from 1890 to 1940 and how they have affected the way American women are seen today". The exhibit is broken up into The Heiress, The Gibson Girl, The Bohemian, The Patriot and the Suffragist, The Flapper, and The Screen Siren.

As you can imagine, the fashions were nothing short of amazing. I could literally go on and on about them. The most interesting thing I found about the exhibit, however, is how truly timeless the pieces were in their construction.


Take this piece from 1910 by Madame Marie Gerber for instance. I highly doubt any hipster would bat an eye if I showed up in a bar in BK in this outfit. After all, it is eveningwear accompanied with leggings!


This sweater from 1895 also caught my eye as it would hardly look out of place in my wardrobe today. I mean there is no way you can deny its similarity to this piece by T Los Angeles.


Then of course there is this excruciatingly beautiful gown made by Madame Grès in 1937. It would hardly look out of place on a red carpet today - just look at this dress worn by Angelina Jolie in 2004.

The exhibit overall was a bit crowded and small, but the curating is amazing. If you are in NYC this summer I highly suggest you brave the crowds and take a trip over to go see it. Also, if you loved the exhibit like me but were hoping to a take a slightly more leisurely stroll through fashion history I highly suggest picking up High Style. It is the catalog created to accompany the exhibit and at $25.00 a copy it is one of the most cost effective art/design books I have ever purchased. I seriously cannot wait to sit down and leaf threw it some more!

Have you been there yet? If so leave your thoughts in the comments.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Reading Rainbow: Elsa Schiaparelli + Lady Gaga

I was talking to a friend the other day about Lady Gaga and made a comparison to Elsa Schiaparelli. She stared at me blankly when I said she out gaga-ed GaGa.
Take this shoe hat for instance which is pretty bad ass to wear back in the day when compared to Lady Gaga's telephone hat of today.

Getting back to to the discussion at hand with my friend, I am sad to say she had no idea who in the hell I was talking about. She asked me to tell her more about Schiaparelli, but I was at a loss as I knew very little about her outside her amazing designs.

It was then that I was hit with a jolt of inspiration: why not blog about it? At first, I was going to do a post cribbed from wiki entries but how trite would that be when talking about a woman who worked with Dada?

Instead, I decided to read her autobiography in her own words and blog about it in a month. I plan to take this a bit further in the future and make reading the great designers in their own words a regular feature on the blog. Think of it like this - Reading Rainbow: Chotto Coquette style.

If you would like to read along and comment I am picking up Shocking Life by Elsa Schiaparelli tomorrow.

Any other designers you would like to see featured? Leave it in the comments.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Walking on Sunshine: Dressing Down for the Weekend

I know there has been a severe lack of outfit posts lately. I apologize, but the nice weather combined with an interview I had totally took me out of my fashionista headspace. In addition, my computer has been eating posts left and right. Case in point it took me 3 days to get this up!

Enough of that though...on to the post!


The weather has been so lovely to the point where even strolling around the UWS with my husband is fun. I mean I have to enjoy it now before the torrential rains of spring come and are promptly followed by the scorching heat of summer. So, can I trust in you to forgive me my dear readers for neglecting to post?

There is a silver lining to my transgression, however, as I have been thinking about what best suits these lazy walks I have become addicted to in the past couple of days. I mean as you can guess by reading the blog I am not exactly a tshirt and jeans kind of gal, as such dressing down for me requires the retention of a certain amount of joie de vivre.

So, without anymore ado here is the perfect outfit to stroll about NYC in the springtime.


1. Banana Republic - Silk Habotai Panel Cardigan in Board Walk (Sizes: XS - XL): $98.00

I love the duality in this piece. The silk offsets enough to give it a funky look, but the cotton keeps it casual. Plus, I will not lie I am an ardent lover of the gray. Maybe I have just spent too long in NYC? Either way black and grey will probably today and forevermore be staples in my wardrobe.

2. Sachin + Babi: Solera Bracelet: $200.00

I adore the thrown together look of this bracelet. I feel it absolutely complements the whole structured thrown together look I go for on the weekends. It is strong enough to make a statement, but subdued enough to look effortless.

3. Lauren By Ralph Lauren - Marian Sleeveless Pleated Cotton Dress in Rose Garden (Sizes: 4 - 16): $150.00

The soft lines are what make this a winner in my book. I know I can just throw this on and ad a bit of fabulousness in my life after a hard week. It just seems so easy to wear and when paired with the sweater from Banana Republic - its plain effortless chic!

4. Roberta Di Camerino - Calf Leather Faux Belt Bag: $1744.00

My first ever official fashion show was in Milan at Roberta Di Camerino. My professor at the time had an in and somehow managed to score decent seats for my whole class to attend. I was studying in Florence at the time, and it honestly blew my mind. Roberta Di Camerino is somewhat responsible for the tuxedo tshirt as she "invented" the whole style of printing accessories on material. The show was amazing and the free champagne did not hurt either! So, I guess you can say I have a soft spot for the brand. Though I think it is hard to deny how great the bag pairs with the outfit - no?

5. Jill Stuart - Crystal Necklace: $348.00

I know a sequined kerchief is not exactly what you would think would go with this particular look, and that is the same reason I love it. It seems a bit out of place, but the more you think about it the more it belongs. The price is steep I know, which has kept from considering purchasing it. Sad fact is, however, the more I dance around it - the more I feel like I NEED it.

6. Eugenia Kim - Chloe Sequin Beret: $198.00

True story I was offered an internship by Eugenia Kim once upon a time to head up their PR department. I turned it down as I got another offer that paid, but I always regretted it. I knew it was a surefire job after I graduated too, but I was so focused on getting paid I shot myself in the foot. Why did I regret it? Well for one, they make insanely gorgeous hats that fit those with large heads! The other was the fact that I am still unemployed one year later. You live and you learn I guess?

7. Converse by Missoni: Call the Missoni Boutique on Madison for pricing - (212) 517-9339

Ok I normally hate when magazines list things without prices. I want to know now where and when I can buy things, but I fell so hard for these Converse by Missoni I could not resist including them. I am normally a flats persona and as such would rather chop off my own foot rather than wear a sneaker. Converse shoes are my achilles heel depending on who you talk are still considered the low end of the totem pole in fashion, but I beg to differ. I guess everyone has a chink in their armor and these are it. Maybe, just maybe, the fact that they are co-designed by Missoni redeems them a bit?

Thoughts? Comments? Bueller?

Friday, March 19, 2010

Anything you can do, I can do better: Issues of Copyright in Fashion


Fashion rarely reinvents the wheel. More often than not you can trace the origins of certain sartorial choices to historical periods, cultural overtures, or even a particular designer of the past. It is a bit of an Ouroboros by nature, but lately it has transgressed the boundary of referential good taste.

Fashionista has been keeping tabs on this in their Adventures in Copyright Series. Just take a look below and you will see exactly what I am talking about.


It is not a new phenomena exactly as it has been endemic in some form to fashion retail in America for quite some time.

"Couture houses sold their patterns to American department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue in New York or I. Magnin in San Francisco for one-year reproduction rights...It wouldn't be a a Paris creation per se, but pretty close...Middle market garment manufactures would pay a fee in 1957, it was $2,000--plus royalties to Dior to incorporate elements of Dior's design into dresses and suits that retailed for $50 or $60 in the United States".
-- Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster by Dana Thomas

The only difference between this situation and the current state of affairs in fashion is lack of due credit. I think it evolved as such because consumers simply do not care about the lineage of the products they purchase. Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster examines this disconnect in luxury retail, but I cannot comment definitively on it as I have yet to finish it. From what I have read so far, it seems mass production of luxury is responsible for dulling the senses of consumers to the finer qualities of design. Thus devaluing its importance in the eyes of consumers and creating the widespread belief that superficial similarity is "good enough".

I cannot say that I have not fed into the system myself as I have been known to pour over "get the look" pages in magazines from time to time. There is, however, a big difference from taking inspiration from the runway and blatantly ripping off a designer. Capsule collections are probably the best solution for consumers that are hungry for luxury trends. It creates a market for those more apt to opt for the knockoffs that litter canal street to purchase "true" designer goods at an affordable price. It also ensures that the designers the recognition and control over the final design they deserve. Win - win right?

The other option for consumers who are low on cash is to support indie designers. The goods do not have the price inflation of high end designer garb, the cookie cutter look of luxury brands, nor lapses in production values that occur sometimes in haute products. I mean how can you go wrong?

Thoughts on it? Leave it the comments.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

A Different Kind of Green for St. Patrick's Day


St. Patty's Day is about many types of green. Green clothing that represents Irish pride, greenbacks used to buy one off shamrock paraphernalia, green beer drank in copious amounts, and green faces when you go a bit overboard.

I would like, however, to talk about another type of green: green living. Today is one of those days when you really see the excess of our culture. Essentially, we desecrate a religious by buying all these tchotchkes to celebrate and also by getting rip roaring drunk. Not that I will be attending church today or anything, but I thought it might be a good time for a post on eco-awareness.

I also just finished this amazing book by Raj Patel called The Value of Nothing: How to Reshape Market Society and Redefine Democracy, which despite some out there ideas is a pretty solid read on how to change society for the better in regards to the environment and treating others humanely. So, maybe I just have it on the brain!

Enough with the diatribe as I am sure you like me have some serious drinking to do today!

Here is a list of 5 unusual ways you can go green:

1. Use Open Source Software: OS software can run leaner and meaner thanks to the millions of coders working on the program. The more efficient the code the more efficient the computer runs and as a result the more green your web surfing becomes. A great example of this is Linux, which I have yet to use myself as I am an Apple fangirl. It is actually more customizable than the MAC OS and better yet it is free! The only reason I have not made the big switch is because I am tied into Apple due to programs like Adobe Creative Suite.


2. Cut Back on the Booze: I know it is a strange thing to say on St. Patrick's Day, but by cutting back just a smidge on your drinking you can help save the environment. According to Treehugger, if I would save myself $1,304 and the earth 1,472 lbs of CO2 per year! Translation: that could put one hell of a fancy handbag on my arm.


3. Buy Vintage: I love vintage. If there was a vintage god, I would visit it's temple everyday and pray for lovely vintage goodies to rain down upon me. Since, unfortunately, that does not exist in real life I depend on awesome re-sellers. In NYC, I normally go to either HousingWorks or this thrift store in the 20s whose name escapes me right now. (I guess I started a bit too early - eh?) In cyberspace, I go to VintageSparkles and LA Vintage. The former has an awesome selection of accessories, and the latter believe it or not has PLUS SIZE vintage!


4. Join Shared Ownership Programs: I love movies. I literally cannot resist buying the bargain basement priced DVDs from Target. It is my secret shame, because obviously I don't watch these movies often enough to justify owning them. That is why I joined Netflix. The same goes for driving and living in the city, which is why we chucked the car and joined ZipCar. Books are another sore spot for me as I love them, but I normally never read them more than once. That is where companies like BookSwim come in for people like me. Not only does it curb spending, but helps me live a little bit greener. Finally, I can't consider myself a fashion blogger without mentioning Avelle formally known as Bag, Borrow, or Steal. Normally, I get to stare at these pieces behind glass but this company puts them within reach.


5. Mend What You Own: We live in a disposable culture. I mean when is the last time you ever heard someone say they were going to mend their socks? I buy pretty expensive shoes when I can scrape together the cash, and I make sure that I maximize the purchase by making sure they are in tip top shape by visiting a cobbler on the regular. I also have had the lining on my coats repaired numerous times, because plus size limitations aside I am extremely discerning when it comes to my clothes. This not only helps me save money and stimulate the economy at the same - it also helps me green my life a bit by cutting down on unnecessary purchases.

I hope that was helpful and I promise I have an awesome post coming up soon. I just had an interview to prepare for and that took a lot out of me!

Enjoy your day of drunken debauchery, religious observance, or regular old Wednesday goodness!

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Framing the Modern Fashion Mythos: The Beautiful Fall

I had a post ready for today about bridal showers. I have to go to one today and I was racking my brain for what to wear and decided that might be of interest to my readers. Key word is HAD, however, as my computer just swallowed it whole.

So, instead we are going to do a short and sweet review of one of the greatest books in modern fashion history.

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One of my favorite books to read about fashion is The Beautiful Fall by Alicia Drake. It has provides great insight into how ready to wear came to dominate the fashion scene and how all the major players came to be. The main focus of the book is on the relationship between Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent, and if that is not your cup of tea it is still worth a read for the decadent descriptions of fashion in the 70s.

The reason I decided to do a post about this book in particular is that we all come into fashion differently. I came in via stories - well one in particular. My best friend and I were watching television one day and the history channel was doing a special on Coco Chanel. This was before the fashion craze went mainstream, and as such this was the first time I ever really heard of Chanel outside perfume.

Watching the program on a lark, I was in awe of her grit and determination to be the best despite her humble upbringing. She literally turned the fashion world on its head simply by being the best. That is no easy feat mind you and she did it all through sheer force of will. As you can imagine, I found her story to be mesmerizing and fell in love with fashion via Chanel that very day.

So, when I came across The Beautiful Fall I thought it was an amazing opportunity to learn about the man who took over the reigns: Karl Lagerfeld. I took away a lot more than I bargained for as I learned about all the ins and outs of the modern fashion business and its evolution from couture. In short, if you are interested in fashion it is a must read.

Normally, I would write more but I have to go pick my dress up for the bridal shower I have to attend today. Wish me luck as I have to endure a 1 hour commute in the rain to reach my destination in NJ. Let's just hope the PATH train isn't flooded by the time I get there.