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Showing posts with label Fashion Week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion Week. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Walking on Sunshine: Dressing Down for the Weekend

I know there has been a severe lack of outfit posts lately. I apologize, but the nice weather combined with an interview I had totally took me out of my fashionista headspace. In addition, my computer has been eating posts left and right. Case in point it took me 3 days to get this up!

Enough of that though...on to the post!


The weather has been so lovely to the point where even strolling around the UWS with my husband is fun. I mean I have to enjoy it now before the torrential rains of spring come and are promptly followed by the scorching heat of summer. So, can I trust in you to forgive me my dear readers for neglecting to post?

There is a silver lining to my transgression, however, as I have been thinking about what best suits these lazy walks I have become addicted to in the past couple of days. I mean as you can guess by reading the blog I am not exactly a tshirt and jeans kind of gal, as such dressing down for me requires the retention of a certain amount of joie de vivre.

So, without anymore ado here is the perfect outfit to stroll about NYC in the springtime.


1. Banana Republic - Silk Habotai Panel Cardigan in Board Walk (Sizes: XS - XL): $98.00

I love the duality in this piece. The silk offsets enough to give it a funky look, but the cotton keeps it casual. Plus, I will not lie I am an ardent lover of the gray. Maybe I have just spent too long in NYC? Either way black and grey will probably today and forevermore be staples in my wardrobe.

2. Sachin + Babi: Solera Bracelet: $200.00

I adore the thrown together look of this bracelet. I feel it absolutely complements the whole structured thrown together look I go for on the weekends. It is strong enough to make a statement, but subdued enough to look effortless.

3. Lauren By Ralph Lauren - Marian Sleeveless Pleated Cotton Dress in Rose Garden (Sizes: 4 - 16): $150.00

The soft lines are what make this a winner in my book. I know I can just throw this on and ad a bit of fabulousness in my life after a hard week. It just seems so easy to wear and when paired with the sweater from Banana Republic - its plain effortless chic!

4. Roberta Di Camerino - Calf Leather Faux Belt Bag: $1744.00

My first ever official fashion show was in Milan at Roberta Di Camerino. My professor at the time had an in and somehow managed to score decent seats for my whole class to attend. I was studying in Florence at the time, and it honestly blew my mind. Roberta Di Camerino is somewhat responsible for the tuxedo tshirt as she "invented" the whole style of printing accessories on material. The show was amazing and the free champagne did not hurt either! So, I guess you can say I have a soft spot for the brand. Though I think it is hard to deny how great the bag pairs with the outfit - no?

5. Jill Stuart - Crystal Necklace: $348.00

I know a sequined kerchief is not exactly what you would think would go with this particular look, and that is the same reason I love it. It seems a bit out of place, but the more you think about it the more it belongs. The price is steep I know, which has kept from considering purchasing it. Sad fact is, however, the more I dance around it - the more I feel like I NEED it.

6. Eugenia Kim - Chloe Sequin Beret: $198.00

True story I was offered an internship by Eugenia Kim once upon a time to head up their PR department. I turned it down as I got another offer that paid, but I always regretted it. I knew it was a surefire job after I graduated too, but I was so focused on getting paid I shot myself in the foot. Why did I regret it? Well for one, they make insanely gorgeous hats that fit those with large heads! The other was the fact that I am still unemployed one year later. You live and you learn I guess?

7. Converse by Missoni: Call the Missoni Boutique on Madison for pricing - (212) 517-9339

Ok I normally hate when magazines list things without prices. I want to know now where and when I can buy things, but I fell so hard for these Converse by Missoni I could not resist including them. I am normally a flats persona and as such would rather chop off my own foot rather than wear a sneaker. Converse shoes are my achilles heel depending on who you talk are still considered the low end of the totem pole in fashion, but I beg to differ. I guess everyone has a chink in their armor and these are it. Maybe, just maybe, the fact that they are co-designed by Missoni redeems them a bit?

Thoughts? Comments? Bueller?

Monday, February 22, 2010

The Negatives of Plus Size via Curves and Chaos

I came across this posting on Curves and Chaos today. Monique posted a link to an article written by Greta Hagen-Richardson titled "The Negatives of Plus Size" and as you imagine it made me pretty incensed.

Here are some of the choice lines:

1) "Despite my very secure self-identification as a feminist, I find myself a bit out of sorts where this topic is involved. While I oppose the idea of size-0 models as the only representation of the female form on the runway, I don’t think I am a fan of the size-12 models either."

How does being a feminist justify that statement? She has the right to say what she will about models, but the size 12 model has been integral to the market for quite some time. Size 12 models just have not been involved in catwalks as visibly until now, and this fact alone just indicates how ill informed the writer is on the subject.

2) "Let me say right now that I am no size 2 or 4 (or 6 for that matter), so I think I can understand the desire of many proponents of the plus-size movement...However, the sizes that the public consider to be in the plus range, 14-18, are to my mind just as unhealthy as the 0s and 2."

I agree to a certain against about the health concerns of being plus sized. I have said it before, and I will again that being on the high end of plus sized is not healthy. I recognize this fact and it is a cause of great anxiety, but that does not mean I need to be discriminated against by becoming fashion's invisible woman. Also, we are not privy to every woman's history - so who is she to judge their health?

3) "Part of what bothers me about having the size 14 on the runway is the motivation for it. In this economic climate, it would seem that many designers are doing whatever they can to jump on a market that was previously untapped...Perhaps this is a marketing ploy more than a new acceptance. If that is the case, then the inclusion of these new models could be just as damaging."

I agree with her to a certain extent in this regard. The fact is I mentioned it yesterday in my post Square Peg/Round Hole: The Dilemma of the Plus Sized Model. Diversity is a slippery slope and being exploited is sometimes the byproduct of inclusion, but does that necessarily mean we should argue against it?

4) "A few months ago, Glamour magazine drummed up a lot of attention by featuring a photo shoot of several plus-size models in the industry. Among them was Lizzi Miller, star of Glamour’s first nude plus-size photo shoot. In an interview, size 12-14 Miller said that she eats right and exercises daily and that her size is an accurate reflection of her natural weight. I find this pretty difficult to believe. I run between a size 8 and a size 10 and like athletics, so perhaps I am unable to shelve my own bias. But it would seem to me that someone eating optimally (six roughly 300-calorie meals a day, complete with the proper distribution of proteins, veggies, and fruits) and working out daily (could be as little as a 20-30 minute run) should be closer to a size 6 or 8."

This is the part of the article that really pissed me off. I have no idea why she thought it was necessary to bring in her own statistics when discussing the model's weight. It screamed to me "hey I'm thinner than this "fatty" why does she get to model"?

5) "I am by no means condemning larger sizes aesthetically. The plus-size women who have walked the runways thus far have been as beautiful as the typical Fashion Week model fare. Trust me — I am about as awed by Miller’s looks as I am of Agyness Deyn’s."

What a backhanded complement! How many times have you heard "you have such a beautiful place, but..."? Same sentiment - different wording.

I just feel overall this woman had her own issues, and took them out on the plus sized models of the catwalk. She mentioned nothing about the mechanics behind the size 0/plus size debate, which is integral to understanding the situation in its entirety.

The clothes shown on the runway are sent out to magazines for shoots. These are normally the only samples that showrooms have to send out for sample requests, and as such the model sizes on the runway determine the sizes you see in magazines. So, in short the models you see on the runway perpetrate the cycle of thinspiration entrenched in the American psyche.

(Sorry for the brevity in the post today. I have a severe headache, and this was all I could muster up before I had to lay back down again.)

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Square Peg/Round Hole: The Dilemma of the Plus Sized Model

The involvement of plus size models in fashion shows are on the rise, but at times I unsure whether to be exhilarated or enraged. Diversity is key to showcasing designs for customers, but I am completely against it being done solely for the sake of notoriety. It reeks of exploitation and commodification, and also an extremely condescending attitude towards the minority being represented.

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Take for instance the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2007 Ready to Wear Show. He casted a size 20 model and then trussed her up as some sort of Valkeryie sent to consume the souls of fashion's fallen. She looked absolutely awful and extremely out of the place when juxtaposed with the looks that proceeded as well as followed her on the runway. A real statement to me, would have been to create a look that fit with the collection and also looked stunning on her. Instead, we get smug commentary on how the plus sized just does not mesh with the scenery of traditional fashion. The whole thing overall smacks of exploitation and also relied on heavy stereotypical imagery of plus sized women in fashion.

What do I mean by this? Well, have you ever wondered why is almost every plus size shoot either naked, in lingerie, or covered with a bed sheet? I mean take the shots of Christina Hendricks who is just a tad bigger than the majority of Hollywood starlets. I swear I have seen her in her knickers more than well myself lately!

Not that there is anything wrong with shooting curves with appreciation, but the real reason these shoots are so common is the sizing issue. Simply put, sample sizes are holding back shoots do to their restrictive size ranges. Thus, a twisted cycle perpetuates itself further and discrimination becomes customary.

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There are some designers like Mark Fast that are trying to be more inclusive. He just showed his latest collection at London Fashion Week, and unfortunately all he deserves for this gesture is a golf clap. This is because after viewing the collection I was left with the following question: If the intention was to include plus size models from the beginning THEN WHY ARE THE GARMENTS NOT FITTING CORRECTLY?

I was lucky enough have interned at a brand where I was present from the initial design process to when the clothing walk down the runway. So, I feel that I am qualified to say that there is no way this would have happened if Mark Fast's intention was to include plus size models from the beginning. If the original samples made for the show were intended to be worn by plus sized models then there is no way the pinching that you see here would not have been addressed during model tryouts. I mean what designer in their right mind would want months of work go down the runway imperfect?

Once again, it is clear that this designer was subverting the plus size model as a means to their own end. In this case, it was all about publicity and I just do not think it was worth it to me as plus size shopper. This is because I much prefer underrepresentation than overexposure of the wrong type of imagery. Hopefully, this will not always be an issue and one day plus as well as straight sized models will walk down the runway arm in arm without notice.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

The Elephant in the Room: How Big is TOO BIG for Fashion?

CocoRocha_DailyNewsCover.jpgIf you have been following NYFW then I am sure you are familiar with the story of Coco Rocha. She is a size 4 model that was set adrift like an old Eskimo due to her desire not to starve herself to fit a sample size. For those not in the know, traditionally the sample size is size 0 or smaller.

She has this to say about her weight "gain":

“If I want a hamburger, I’m going to have one. No 21-year-old should be worrying about whether she fits a sample size.”

And yet this is the country we (well I) live in. Models are not picked for shows because they "balloon" up to size 4 and directors are ejected from airplanes apparently due to safety/comfort concerns involving "customers of size". Obviously there is some sort of disconnect going on here, but alas this is not a posting for the Freakonomics blog on the NYT website.

Now what does this have to do with a blog on plus size fashion you may be asking yourself? In her industry, for lack of a better term, Coco Rocha is plus sized. Think about it this way: the sample size is 0 and most brands only go up to a 10 /12 . Having runway models that are size 4 would essentially be the same as pushing the size range from 10/12 to 14/16. See what I mean now?

When I was having this discussion with my better half about the whole Coco Rocha fiasco, he asked me a really interesting question. How big is too big for fashion? His position was that if you let yourself go past a certain point it obviously indicated a disinterest in yourself and by extension fashion. After all, he said, not everyone can be a victim of medical/genetic issues.

I was stumped at first at how to answer.
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Fashion as business is based upon the creation and manipulation of artifice. Simply put, you are invested in how you look because you are using it as a signifier of the characteristics that you want to associate with or represent. Fashion designers essentially create the canvas that breathes life into these characteristics, and as such they demand control as we are treading on their dreams by donning their garments. So, could it possibly be that we are in the wrong to ask them to design in larger sizes?

Fit definitely becomes an issue as waistlines expand and at a certain size it becomes next to impossible to provide a flattering silhouette. Then again designers also rarely design for women anymore and more often than not opt to do so for hangers. This in and of itself explains the proliferation of gamine sprites on the catwalks. So, it is clear that there is room for some middle ground concerning size ranges.

That still, however, does not answer his original question of "how big is too big for fashion". I think we all have our own individual opinions on this subject, and far be it for me to make a decree for everyone out there. I'd love to hear your comments on the subject. Either write something below or e-mail me.

Monday, February 15, 2010

Fashion Fiction vs. Reality: The Devil Doesn't Always Wear Prada

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Fashion week has a lot of fond memories for me.

I met one of my most recent besties there about 1 year ago at the Karen Walker Show. (She's based in Paris now and has an amazing blog on vintage fashion. Check it out here.) The year before that I was an intern at Zero + Maria Cornejo and I helped coordinate their show as well. It was truly one of the most amazing and challenging times in my life as I got to learn all about the process of putting on a show.
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I was lucky to get this opportunity at Zero + Maria Cornejo, because they are such an amazing brand. The designer Maria is extremely talented and has a choice story about a particularly famous fashion editor who shall remain nameless. I will not get into details - but in short she lived to tell the tale. That alone should give you some insight into the woman's talent and tenacity, which of course is very present in her designs.

The other reason I value my time spent at Zero so much is that it showed me fashion is not always about who you know or what you look like. It is very much about hard work, and that was all it took to get the position there. This was not always the case for me, as there have been multiple occasions in my fashion career where my appearance sunk my chances of snagging a position. This was such a non issue that they even had me do check in at the door at the show!

They also have been known to make their items in up to size 16 for special orders, which in my opinion reflects the abilities of Maria as a designer. Some people have to rely on hangers to make their clothes look great, but she does it by having the talent to create amazing designs.

Why do I bring this up today? I saw on twitter today that Bono had popped into their show and WomensWear Daily posted some pics from the show as well. It made me so happy to know that a brand with such vision and great people behind it are getting noticed.